Highlands Sky 40 Mile Trail Run

Volunteer Report at the CMMM

So Gregg Holst and I headed over to West Virginia for this inaugural 50 mile race.  He ran it, and I volunteered.  I guess I’ll let Gregg give his opinion on the course as a whole.  But I thought the race was very nice.  It started at 9 PM and went overnight, with a 13 hour limit (10 AM).  The course started with a big uphill as you run up the mountain, then was rolling for the middle 30 or so, then went back downhill to return to the start.  The beginning and end were the same,but there were a couple loops in the middle.  It was mostly single-track forest road, with a little asphalt in the first/last mile and some substantial trail sections in the first two thirds.

I ended up working at an aid station that was passed twice, around 23 and 33 miles, pretty much at the top of the mountain.  It was one of the two with possible crew access.  We got up there with a truck full of drop bags a little after 9, and the captain had set up the tent and lighting and then headed off to run part of the course, activating the glow sticks at the turns and stuff.  So we unpacked the rest of the stuff and then went for a walk as the runners weren’t really expected until midnight.  It was a clear night and the sky was UNBELIEVABLE — more stars than I’ve ever seen.  You could see the Milky Way!  Plus the occasional shooting star.  I’m kind of glad I didn’t run!

Anyway, we got back to the station and the captain and crews straggled in.  It was a cool night, so we started a big fire by the side of the road and then laid out all the food and stuff.  The first runner shot through around 12:30, and the second-place guy was about 15 minutes behind.  The last two or three runners missed the 3 AM cutoff for the 23-mile visit, so they were pretty spread out already.  (One of them was pretty grumpy — he said he ran like hell for the last mile and only missed it by a couple of minutes — but the race director had made the call.)  When the leader got back around 2 AM, he didn’t even stop, and he had opened it up a bit more on the second place guy. Everyone who had made the 3 AM cutoff for 23 also made the 6 AM cutoff for 33 — in fact, the last group passed around 5:30.  The slowest people were actually the sweep crew, who didn’t make it to 23 until 4:30 AM!  We gave them a lift to the next trail turnoff a mile down the road, but they were still running pretty far behind.

It was a long night, but lots of fun.  We had a good crowd between the volunteers and crews (who all pitched in), and it was really nice to have the fire to sit around.  I hear one of the other stations had grilled cheeses, which we didn’t, and another had Christmas lights (we turned our generator off because it was too noisy), but I still think ours was the best.  The home brewed beer might have helped.  It certainly helped *some* of the runners!  There was only one little dead point where things got a little slow, but just about the time we noticed, another group came along.  It was always neat to see runners coming, because we’d see the bobbing lights through the trees a bit before the runners actually made it to us.  Though it was hard to get a count, because some of them only had a headlamp whereas others had a belt or hand light in addition, so sometimes it looked like there were more people until they were right on top of us.

We packed it up after the last runners at 5:30, but it turned out that our van was the transportation for the sweep crew, so we were going to have to wait there for them to come through — and we knew they were hours behind the runners.  Rather than wait, I started a little after 6 AM and ran the last 17 from the aid station to the finish (though sadly, all the trails were in the first 33).  I was fresh and therefore running fast relative to the official runners; it was nice to stop and talk to the “real” runners on the way in.  I caught some minor up and downs and then the huge downhill off the mountain — complete with switchbacks and all.  The only problem was one intersection where the markers had been vandalized the night before. The race director had re-marked it, but the markers were clearer going out than coming back.  I turned the wrong way but didn’t go very far at all before I decided there weren’t any markings and doubled back. Sadly, not everyone was so lucky.

Of the runners I passed, some were just making their way in at their own pace.  A few were really hurting, particularly in the last mile where there was one last substantial uphill.  One woman very close to the back was running her first 50, and was really worried that she wasn’t going to make it under 13 hours.  She was running with a friend and they were desperately calculating the miles and time remaining — but I wasn’t wearing my watch or GPS so I didn’t really know where we were on the course.  Their math sounded a little off, but still, what do you say?  She asked if I thought the race director would give her a finishers shirt even if she didn’t make the deadline.  I told her she could have my (volunteer) shirt if he didn’t give her one.  (At the time, I didn’t realize they were different shirts.)

It was nice to see the 4-mile remaining sign, because until then, I hadn’t really known how far along I was.  But that downhill off the mountain was really amazing — I’m sure glad I didn’t run it the other way first!  I definitely got the easier part of the course.

When I got in, there was a breakfast going at the race HQ (a 4-H camp), and showers too.  Can’t complain about the amenities!  They had space for sleeping bags inside and tents outside.  Guess it would have been smart to bring one.  But by the time I ate and cleaned up, I got to see some of the finishers, and then there wasn’t much of a wait before the pasta brunch and award ceremony, so I found Gregg and we stuck around for that.  Sadly, neither of us came up for door prizes — or awards.  But everyone who left our aid station at mile 33 made it to the finish — and earned a shirt.

Finally, Gregg and I drove home, which involved a lot of caffeine and driver switches, as neither of us had slept before getting in the car.

Overall, I thought it was very nice, especially for a first-time event.  The only nits I can pick are the route markings on that one turn, and the fact that the brunch entree was pasta (ick).  But I can’t even really complain about that since I was full from the free breakfast!

I would definitely recommend this next year for anyone who wants to do a little stargazing.  I’ll let Gregg comment on the course as a whole,but the last 17 miles was sure nice.  I will say that some of the runners were really happy to get to the trails, while others were really happy to get to the roads *after* the trails — so… I guess the course has something for everyone!

And in closing, here are some photos:

Flickr Photos

Thanks,
Aaron

P.S. What’s the area like?  While running between 6 and 7 AM, I passed probably 8 pick-up trucks that were all heading up the mountain, each with 2 or more dogs barking in the back.  I’m guessing it’s not just the world’s biggest kennel up there.

Author: Aaron Mulder

The Inaugural Running of the Cheat Mountain Moonshine Madness 50 Mile Trail Run

The summer sun set on August 22 and with it the inaugural running of the CMMM 50. A total of 84 hearty souls toed the line for the 9:00 p.m. start deep in the mountains of West Virginia; ready to run into the uncertainty of darkness.

The course starts and finishes from the cozy and historic Camp Pioneer in Beverly. Delivering a mix of roads, fire roads, and some of the most scenic and remote single track around, the course follows the undulations of Cheat Mountain for 50 miles and 6,300 feet of elevation gain and loss.

The race up front quickly unfolded with Aaron Schwartzbard and Brian Schmidt setting the pace early. Aaron and Brian ran closely together over the first 13 miles until Aaron pulled away on the single track and never looked back. Aaron won in a quite impressive time considering the darkness and technical nature of the course. He was followed by Schmidt 37 minutes behind and a race for third between Chris Miller and Bill Young. Miller managed to edge out Young for third, but not before Bill showed him his stomach contents on the road entering the camp. On the women’s side, Justine Morrison handily carried the lead until the last few miles when she inadvertently took a detour and added three miles to her run. She still managed to take the win, but a very strong Jenny Deegan was less than four minutes behind her at the finish line. Third place was shared by ultra-veterans Rebekah Trittipoe and Sophie Speidel. The finish line saw a total of 73 delighted, yet sleep deprived runners cross the line for a finishing rate of 87%.

I believe the race was best summed up by runner Todd Dishong. “Whether you were one of the 73 that crossed the finish line in 7:30 or closer to 13 hours – all of us got to experience the madness of Cheat Mountain together and we can say we were the first as a united group to run this course officially. I can honestly say as me and my family headed up to Canaan Valley to spend a few days, I definitely felt a little more wild and wonderful as a result of this experience. Ultra-Running…where else can you get all this and more?”

A special thanks to all the WVMTR club members, volunteers, and sponsors that came together to help make this race a reality. Next year the race will be held August 28-29.

Author: Adam Casseday

Grindstone training, week # 10

2008 Highlands Sky Race Report

Aside from the intimidating elevation profile, relatively long finish times and scary race reports from last year’s race, my first real clue as to the beauty and difficulty of this race was driving the hairpin turns that wind up the mountains as I made the trip west out to Davis, WV on Route 50. Topping out at 40 mph, I had to apply the brake going UP around these turns, as thunderstorms rolled across the peaks. I knew it was going to be a challenging race to say the least.

The night before the race, RD Dan Lehman held a pre-race dinner (complete with ziti & spaghetti with both meat and plain marinara sauce, garlic bread, salad, cookies, whole fruit, and his son’s micro-brewed beer!) at the Canaan Valley Resort, where the race also ended the next day. I felt a bit amateurish as I dined in the large facility surrounded by people like Dan, the incredible David Horton, Annette Bednosky, and many others sporting gear from Hardrock and Leadville and talking about MMTR and other monstrous races. The meeting made me a bit anxious, as several people told me that the race “runs more like a 50,” meaning the mountainous course was so hard it felt more like 50 miles than 40. I returned to my tent at Blackwater Falls State Park and fell asleep after the final gear checks, organization attempts, and reading a little from my library book.

My alarm went off at 4:00am, I got my gear and, as quietly as possible for consideration of other campers, drove out and down to Canaan Valley. I changed into my race clothes in the CVR lobby’s bathroom and climbed aboard one of the 2 school buses used to haul us from the finish area at the resort to the starting line. I thought a lot about mental preparation and the importance of attitude during the 25-minute bus ride, firming myself in my resolve to continue walking even if I found thoughts of defeat creeping into my head during the race.

A quick trip to the port-o-potty behind the cabin at the start and I stood around with other runners with my two water bottles in hand, funny green hat on my head, orange trail shoes on my feet, bib pinned to my shorts, and ready to go. I tossed my drop bag into the van, which I’d see again at mile 19.7, and paced in anticipation. RD Dan climbed his wiry frame to the top of a small knoll (he had planned on running WS100 until it was cancelled this year) and from behind his bristling beard said something very close to, “Hi everyone! Come up close – here’s the starting line. I hope it doesn’t rain on you too much. Everyone ready? Go!” Quite truthfully, he just said “go” without so much as an “on your marks” – which really would be dumb, anyway – or an airhorn or anything. It was so anti-climactic that many of us laughed as we just started running.

The first couple miles were an easy downhill (mostly) on a back-country road, though paved. I just tried to keep moving along slowly, starting with the back of the pack, and wait for the eventual single-track. I ran most of this just behind Willy, Dan’s son and the brewer of the “Cold Trail Ale” and oatmeal stout I sampled the night before at CVR. Willy’s about 6’5″ and easily recognizable by, in addition to his height, his two braids of brown hair that hang down in front of his shoulders. That was the last I saw of Willy; he probably finshed an hour or more ahead of me….

After the road stretch, we entered a field with a brisk uphill through damp grass and then into the woods. The muddiness of the course became apparent immediately, which is always a factor – someone described the course to me the night before as “perpetually boggy with innumerable rocks” – but this was aided by the thunderstorms of the night before. I ran for a few hundred yards with a young woman who was tackling her first ultra but was woefully unprepared (cotton socks, no drop bag, etc.), but lost her when she fell victim to the shoe-sucking-mud (it sucked her shoe off). Then I caught up to a group that was walking the switchbacks that climbed up the mountain in our first long ascent. Without even planning to do so, I caught myself whistling “Whistle While You Work” as we walked and occasionally ran up the mountain through a tight single track hemmed by stinging nettles and carpeted with rocks and mud. Check the official race site, but I think this uphill lasted for over 2 miles.

Once up ontop of the mountains (or near the top), the air was clear, cool, and sweet with conifers. Some of the bushes had pink, others white, flowers. There were 2 or 3 small trees along the course that stood out with brilliant orange blossoms in full bloom; I have no idea what they were. For the majority of the course, sight-seeing was limited by the necessity to constantly watch one’s feet or else suffer a twisted ankle or worse. I did, in fact, turn my ankles a few times but never fully rolled them and managed to stay upright the entire day. Any aspirations for dry feet were cast aside by this point by those who, unlike me, managed to stay dry through the muck leading up to the mountaintop.

Between the first and second aid stations was a long enough gap, which included the first large ascent, that I was out of fluids despite carrying two Nathan hand-helds, so when the 2nd aid station appeared around another muddy, rocky bend on the ridgeline, it was a welcome sight. I was staying well ahead of the cut-offs despite the copious walking on the initial climb and was feeling good.

The next few sections of the course are a blur right now, but at some point the craggy puddle-splashing shifted to limestone pebbles, allowing for a brief look around the woods. After about a half mile or so, we made a left and crossed a creek that was coppery brown with what I suppose was high metal or mineral content in the surrounding terrain. This was followed, eventually, by a tremendously long and, at times, steep downhill section that must have gone on for about 2 miles or more. I could feel some sliding in my shoes and worried that the skin of my heels had blistered up and was coming loose under the friction of rock-jumping and downhill running while being soaked with stream water and mud, but as I found out later, this was thankfully not the case. The extreme downhill was followed by a lot of flat and gradual uphill with plenty of rocks, then even more uphill and stream crossings. I no longer bounded from rock to rock but just plowed through the deepest section of chilled mountain stream I saw, enjoying the coolness on my feet and legs even as most of the water squished out after emerging on the muddy banks.

Eventually we made it to mile 19.7, the drop-bag location. I stripped down my hat, shirt, and shoes & socks, applied Vaseline to high-friction zones and feet as a blister-prevention measure, donned fresh (dry!) shirt, socks, and hat, and laced up my same trail shoes. Some more supplies from my bag were added (Perpetuem powder in one bottle and some Gin-Gin Boosts for down-times to come), I scarfed some boiled (and peeled!) potatoes dipped in salt along with some Pringles and perhaps a section of PBJ before topping off the water bottles and heading out along a section of the course that claimed the morale of many – a roughly 10-mile (?) section of nearly arrow-straight dirt-and-rock road that gently rolled along the top of the ridgeline. The road was, as one woman remarked to me on our way out of the aid station, “a nice reprieve from the rocks,” but, as another seasoned ultra veteran told me on our way several miles up the road, “there’s just something about this road that gets to me.” Perhaps it was the fact that, at times, you could see runners power-walking up hills that you yourself wouldn’t get to for another 15 minutes. I think nearly all ultra runners love the variation that comes with single-track, and roads are almost the antithesis to this freshness (the true antithesis being treadmills, in my opinion). Despite these comments, I felt good after eating and drinking more – my urine output was colorful and sparse, so for the rest of the race I tried my best to drink a lot. I power-walked many of the uphills and slowly ran as much of the rest of the road as I could, eating a Gin-Gin Boost at one point, which uplifted me. By the time I got to the merciful left turn off the road an onto the Denali-like high plains that covered this section of the ridge, I was over an hour ahead of the cut-off.

Several miles of running on this plateau, sprinkled here and there with heavily rocked and marshy mud-bogs, I kept making decent time, feeling good and passing a few people. My energy never waned in this race, and I attribute this to good nutrition, fluids, and electrolytes; training with 50K races; and adequate mental preparation – I did not underestimate this course. Some of the views of the Dolly Sods from these ridge lines were so impressive that it was worth walking on runnable ground (pine-needles over gravel single-track!) just to gaze at the mountaintops in every direction.

As I navigated the fun boulder-hopping section around mile 31, the gray-and-white boulders set an ominous contrast against the darkening skies. Thunder was rolling in from the direction I was headed, and a storm was imminent. I caught two others who were happily pointing to the next peak. When I looked up, I saw that it was aid station #7, the second-to-last on our journey – a tent in a clearing at the top of the next peak. We ran down, then up, the small saddle between the peaks and were greeted by a kind boy of about 9 or 10 who took our fluid refills (“What can I get for your bottle? We have water, Gatorade, Heed, Coke, Mello Yello….”) and told us, in the food tent, that he hoped we made it out before the rain. We laughed and headed out, me about a bit ahead of the others.

Thunder boomed in all directions, but mostly right where I was heading, and I was still climbing towards the rumbling sky. The rain first hit as I was running alone through small grassy fields that wound through the occasional wooded patches up on the mountain. After a few long, gentle downhills that were very runnable, I emerged into a large open field and the rain was coming down hard. Lightning was flashing in the sky as I realized that I was running up a ski slope! Attempting to avoid being struck by lightning, I ran parallel to the marked course that went straight up the middle of the exposed slope, instead running through the tall grasses that hugged the wood line. I saw one other guy up ahead of me trudging straight up the slope, so I focused on powerwalking up to try and catch him, which I did about 2 minutes after leaving the slope alive as we veered mercifully left into a thick forest not quite at the top of the ski slope. By now the rain was pouring so hard that it came running off my hat in a stream rather than droplets, and my technical t-shirt was sticking to my belly. I passed the other runner, made some sort of remark about being grateful to be in the woods, and continued on under the cover of trees as the rain and thunder continued. I’d occasionally glance at my watch, and I think by now it was around 7 or 8 hours.

A long and extremely downhill section, referred to as the “butt slide” by some, followed. With the turrential rains, it was very slow going. My feet faced sideways in one direction, perpendicular to my descent, in order to help prevent a mudslide. I was very surprised not to fall here, but came close on several occasions as the rain continued all around.

After the long downhill and a gradual downhill run through slippery, muddy farm roads, I got to the last aid station, 4.1 miles from the finish. I was just under 9 hours at this point so knew I had a good shot at breaking 10 hours. The fact that most of the remaining running was on a paved road was unappealing but promised a decent time. A time of 10 hours on this race (at 40 miles) is 4mph on average. This seems ridiculously slow to any road runner who is used to hitting their splits for 5K, 10K, and marathon distances but who fails to consider variables such as over 5000 feet of elevation gain, descents where holding onto trees is necessary to remain vertical, stops for aid and to “water the grass,” boulder hopping, gear changes, and others. However, I was confident that, with 4 miles to go on mostly flat roads, I could easily powerwalk that without running in less than an hour, as I was feeling pretty good despite the resurgence of lightning just as I caught up to a couple other guys on the open road.

The rest of the race I switched many times between powerwalking and running to maintain a good pace, keep energy and enthusiasm high, and because trying to kill myself by running the rest of the way in wouldn’t be worth a finish time of 9:35 versus 9:55. In the end, I avoided getting struck by lightning, caught up to a guy I met at the pre-race dinner, of all people, and finished the race running the last half mile or more of trail after crossing the road and running the driveway of the Canaan Valley Resort. The race ended between the lodge (where we dined the night before) and the swimming pool, with my official time being 9:47:38. I met all of my goals for this race and had a fantastic time. Dan was a gracious RD, greeting each finisher as he or she crossed the finish line, as he stood there in his rain coat. He even took our photos; I think he missed me, but that’s okay. Race volunteers also gave us our finishers’ shirts as we crossed the line – Patagonia capilene long-sleeves, a great gift. I snagged a can each of Barq’s and Dr. Pepper (might have had a beer if they had any, but really didn’t miss it) and a Zone bar, stuffed them into my drop bag (now conveniently placed on the floor of the pavillion near the finish), hosed off my shoes and legs, and hobbled back up the hill to my car to head back to camp. I decided to forego the post-race meal, which I had already paid for, as well as the second night of camping (ditto) in order to shower at camp and drive the 4 hours back to Burke, VA. In the end I’m glad that I drove back through the rain to stay with my family and friends in their house in Burke rather than camp, uncomfortably, alone in a thunderstorm.

This race was one of my best, hardest, and most fun, and the recovery time afterwards was both much needed and well earned.

Highlands Sky 2008: The race up front

The first half of Highland Sky was uneventful. Just nice smooth running in good weather. I traded positions with Yassine Diboun and Zach Irelan over the first six or seven miles. When we hit the flat and fast trails of the Roaring Plains, I felt good and eased ahead.
The race wasn’t much of one until Aid Station 6. By the end of the Road Across the Sky, I was nursing a little bonk. I rolled into the aid station needing something. Adam was coo-ing around like a protective hen, clucking encouragement and touting my prowess. I drank some coke and filled my water bottle. Poured numerous cups of water over my head. To Zach’s credit he hammered away to close the gap over almost 20 miles. So when I was leaving Aid 6 he was just arriving. About a minute down the trail onto the North Sods I realized I hadn’t taken any gels or food. So it was just me, a bottle of water, and salt with 7 miles to the next food. Already starting to bonk, this was a mistake.

A couple miles into the trails Zach caught and passed me. It flashed through my hazy mind that I might not be able to keep up. But I’ve learned not to let my mind decide those things. That is for the legs to decide and when they fail, the heart. Across the Sods I tripped on every rock as I clung stubbornly to the shadow of Irelan. I tried to conserve energy, run as easily as possible, hang onto Zach, and make it to Willie’s Aid Station.

Which I did. Stumbling along. A couple times Zach asked if I wanted to lead… this question was usually prefaced by the grunt, ‘I hate these ——’ rocks’. I politely declined until I accidentally passed him on the Boulders. To my advantage, I put on the brakes and gently picked my way across them, running at a very easy pace. Later, Zach would ask how I was able to run so quickly over those boulders! But I was stalling, hoping that some restful pace would work to my advantage. Mentally, I started picking off landmarks to get me to Willie’s aid station. Zach took the lead on the final climb to the bastion of hope and calories. I had nothing and did what I could to shuffle up the hill. He put 17 seconds on me in those few hundred meters and tried to bury me by not stopping at the aid station. I stopped. I had no choice.

Got two hammer gels, a cup of Gatorade, and filled my bottle with Gatorade. I was so out of it mentally that I didn’t even recognize RexRode. He might have even been the one who filled my bottle. I cannot recall. The only thing I knew was that I had to eat and I had to surge down the hill to catch Zach. As I was leaving the aid station, Juli Hooks said to me, “You can catch him, he’s not that far ahead.”

Looking back on it, those two nasty banana Hammer Gels could not possibly have taken effect so quickly. It is more likely a mental-chemical change (read: placebo effect) that reflects the supreme confidence that I have in the power of food. I headed down the trail and sprinted down the single-track. I flailed my way down the wall of tears at a dangerous rate. For once I didn’t think about where I would place my feet or which rocks to avoid, but only faster…faster…faster.

Coming into the clearing and trail that leads onto the ski slope I heard a mysterious whistling. Sharp, short, and piercing. Huh? I broke through the trees onto the ski slope to see a sight as sharp as any in my memory. Zach, only a short way up the hill, was walking and looking over his shoulder directly at me. The source of the whistle was a couple walking with an unleashed black lab. I walked for about twenty seconds to catch my breath. The lab trotted through the haze and nuzzled my right knee. In the fog, I saw snapshots of Zach up ahead and looking back at me. So tired from the long bonk and the sprint downhill, but frustrated at the walking, I sucked it up and started running. Everytime I blinked, sleepily, languidly, Zach was walking up ahead but always looking at me. It was surreal.

Towards the top, the trail levels out. The stress got to be too much for him, watching this zombie eat up his lead. He started running. He ducked left onto the single-track trail and was gone from sight in the conifers. I kept pumping my arms and inching up the little rolling hills. I decided then that I’d catch him on the buttslide … and I did. After that long surge I was back in his shadow, stumbling and bouncing off trees down the steep hillside.

Then I stepped awkwardly on a rock or a root and my left calf seized. Like someone stuffed a grapefruit between the muscle and my shin. SALT! I had a couple e-caps in my water bottle pouch. They had exploded in my ziplock baggy. I popped one in my mouth–nastiness– and slugged it down with Gatorade. The cramp loosened for a minute or so before it spasmed again. Emotionless and still running, I got the other salt pill, swigged it, and kept on his heels. Sometime in there he muttered that he was ready to be done with these trails. I said nothing. We hit the motocross trails and on a big sweeping left-hand rutted turn I squeaked by him on the inside.

Until this point I had been trying to plan the end. Thoughts flickered about outkicking him down the finish hill, but I had made my move without thinking. So I went for it. Just tried to keep the legs moving. At one point I tripped. There was no saving this one so I pulled my arms in, barrel-rolled down the dirt and came up running. In the midst of the roll, I looked straight back up the hill. No Zach. I just kept pumping my arms, hoping my legs would follow. Sometimes they did and sometimes they didn’t.

Out onto the roads I tried to find another gear. Cruising past the last aid station I recognized Chip Chase. I yelped at him. He turned to look at me. “You WILD MAN!” he shouted as he flashed the black pride fist. Then I was on down Freeland Road, running hard, running slow. I kept looking over my shoulder expecting Zach, but I couldn’t see him. Run hard, run smooth. Feel the rhythm, feel the ride … Off and on my left calf would lock up and I’d be on my toes, running like a ballerina. Far from pain, I felt only a mild disembodied frustration that I was falling apart. I’d reach down, manually flex my foot, and start running again. Though I kept looking back, I still tried to stay out of sight of him … thinking that this might break him. But as my legs were failing, I didn’t particularly trust my eyes, so I kept looking and looking.

Onto the grassy path along Route 32 I slogged. And onto the driveway of Canaan I tiptoed and shuffled. I counted down the turns to the finish. I pumped my arms. I saw, off in the distance, a shirtless runner ahead. Who’s that I thought? He’s moving fast? Why’s he running on the wrong side of the road? [turns out it was Adam] And there was a woman in blue running towards and then away from me. I was ready to collapse. Just before the grassy trail leading to the finish, I caught up to her. “Good job”, she said. “How do you feel?” As I recall, I grimaced and shrugged my shoulders.

Then onto the grass trail, through the woods, and down to the finish.

I recall Dan cheering and exclaiming about a course record, but I didn’t see anything. Not in focus at least. I knew I was through the finish and then I crashed on the grass, head downhill, calves locked in spasm. Dan and Jody sponged ice water on them and each wrestled with a calf trying to get it back to a more realistic shape. Good race.

PR Highlands Sky 40 mile Trail Run. A personal account.

PR. Personal Record. I guess it’s a runner thing. To some of us PR’s matter and yet others really don’t care about them at all. We note our personal records for different distances or different races. But it’s just what it says it is. Personal. No one else cares or even notices for that matter. Running ultras is after all, an individual pursuit. For those of us who will never finish at the front of the pack, our competition many times is nothing more than ourselves. Can I do it faster than I did it before? Can I get a PR?

The Highlands Sky 40 miler has become just like Thanksgiving and Christmas; a tradition for Pam and me. If it’s Father’s Day weekend, then we have to be out in the Canaan Valley of West Virginia. Regardless of the race outcome, it has always been a rewarding experience. Race headquarters is the Canaan Valley Lodge where the pre-race and post race festivities take place. Plenty of time over several days to visit with likeminded souls. It is a great weekend year after year.

Busses carry the runners over twisting back roads through the pre-dawn darkness to the race start about 10 miles from the lodge. 6:00AM. Dan says go and we’re off. Already one new PR of sorts as I realize I’ve never started this race without Pam right beside me. The climbs come early in the race and the effort to push over them in a timely fashion is, doctors orders, not allowed for her at this point. Pam will be getting a little bit of running on her own over these spectacular trails and then helping at the third aid station and the finish line today.

Although the sky is partly clear it’s partly cloudy too, humidity hanging heavy, mist floating, dark formless billows. With the cloud cover the forest is dark. And wet. Mud and standing water are the order of the day as we make our way up and up, getting steeper, temples pounding pulse, going higher. Twenty three hundred feet. Finally. The rocks. The course winds over Roaring Plains, sometimes in the open, sometimes with a little tree cover, very technical rocky running here, mud and water too. The sun is out and the beauty of this place vibrates I go splashing merrily along, slop, slip, sliding on my way, sun out now and then, laurel just beginning to bloom but azaleas bursting with color. Occasionally I get the feeling that I should be moving faster but I remind myself that it’s only been four weeks since my 100 mile run at MMT, and I’m more than content to take whatever the day offers.

Second PR today. Never got to the second aid station in under two and half hours before. Satisfaction. A little more technical stuff and then the course plunges steeply. Seventeen hundred feet down. The forest is thick and dark and the wet trail is rocky and slick. Making good time here. Lush dank forest, murky and dismal. Rushing streams discolored by the vegetation of the area tumble over the rocks, then I’m climbing once again, up and up, old rail bed, then up once again, high humidity, sweat pouring out.

I arrive at aid station #3 and Pam is there. I remember waiting for her at this very spot three years ago when I was injured and couldn’t run. Other way around today though. I feel fine and soon I’m on my way. Up steeply once more, and then out of the woods and into the open passing through pine thickets every now and then. Stop for the view. Take a moment to let the diversity of this place sink in. I must take some of this back with me somehow and so I let the beauty of this place carry me along, sun and clouds playing tag.

As I make my way along the seven miles of that miserable gravel Road Across The Sky, the sun begins to warm things up. There’s a pretty god breeze blowing up here as I make my way along the road through Dolly Sods, but I’m thinking that if the sun comes out any stronger and heats up all this humidity, surely thunder storms will soon be a reality. Finally the turn that will get me off this road appears. Hmm. Another PR as I realize I’m at aid station #6 almost ten minutes earlier than ever before. As I leave aid station #6, crossing Dolly Sods, I’m on the most beautiful part of the course crossing heath barrens and open meadows, with pine and spruce scattered about, and views in all directions. Normally when I get to this point I’m so relieved to be done with that seven miles of road and finally crossing open ground that my spirits begin to soar and some of my energy so easily sucked out of me by The Road Across The Sky returns. Well not today as all my vigor seems to evaporate, the stiff breeze eerily spiriting my energy away. But as always happens, slowly the bad patch ends, energy returns and the spirit renews. I begin to feel better and quickly pick up the pace. Moving well once again, probably better than ever before. As I thought it might the sun comes out hot and within an hour I can hear the thunder. Really moving well now with the thought of being out on this open ridge in a thunderstorm pushing me forward into the day.

The rain begins lightly, and I’m out of aid station #7 in short order. The sky is black and as I hustle along the ridge, lightning flashes in my periphery. Focusing on the rocks I’m finally going downhill and I know it will be only a short distance until I’m back in the woods, a little safer from the lightning crackling all around. Just before I gain the woods the heavens open. I’m thrilled to be moving so well at this point of the race, and the downpour doesn’t bother me at all. Running water in the trail rises instantly. Soon I’ve made the turn and as I hike up the ski slope, the rain subsides to a more moderate level before finally stopping all together. Through the woods, I’m excited to be running really well, and I begin to think that despite my earlier slowdown during my bad spell, I just might be able to get to the finish in less than ten hours and the thought of that gets me going with even more determination. Until I get to The Buttslide.

This muddy, wet, greasy near-vertical pitch is death defyingly steep straight down. Hang ten. I almost dislocate my shoulder as I attempt a self arrest by grabbing a tree while surfing a wave of mud sliding out of control to what at that moment had all the appearance of certain death. Well almost. I try to tip toe through the woods beside The Buttslide, grabbing onto trees for support and after what seems like forever I’m delivered out on to an ATV trail that is so wet and covered with grease-like mud and standing water that running is really out of the question. And it’s raining again. Simply staying upright takes all the talent I have and after creeping along through that slop for way too long I finally come out of the woods and onto some grass and at last I can run once again.

A quick check of my watch and I realize my hope of breaking ten hours has, quite literally, slipped away. Well, maybe if I have the energy to run the last 5 miles I can come close. So I focus and try to get it done, which is something I’ve never been able to do this late in this race.

This is my fifth run at Highlands Sky and always in the past when I hit the last four and a half miles of roads to the finish I’m just too out of gas to really run very much. Oh, I shuffle along going through the running motions, but the feeling of needing to walk soon overcomes me and it seems I just shuffle and walk for the entire distance to the finish. But, for some reason or other, not today. Maybe it’s the light rain keeping me cool? Don’t know, but I’m running. OK. Well maybe it’s a slow run but it’s more than a shuffle. Check the watch again. Hmm. Maybe sub-ten hours is in the cards after all. I try to pick up the pace. At last across Route 32 and into the Canaan Valley Park entrance. I’ve never been able to run very much here but today I’m running every step. Finally up a small grade and from somewhere comes the energy to begin to really run. Faster. Check the watch. Can’t tell if I can make or not. Faster. Not sure how far I have to go. Faster and it’s starting to hurt. Off the road and onto the trail through the woods that leads to the finish line. Can’t remember how far it is. Faster and now it does hurt. Check the watch. Oh well. Ten hours on the nose. Oh. Maybe the race clock and my watch are different. Faster and it really hurts now. A couple of turns, up the final hill, out of the woods across the grass, there’s the finish, let-her-rip, I’m flying now across the line in 10:01:49. Not under ten hours. But 2 minutes 42 seconds faster than last year. And last year was my fastest run ever at this race. Hmm. A PR.

One of the many great things about Highlands Sky is that the awards aren’t given out until after the post race dinner. On Saturday evening, everyone together, sharing lies and enjoying fellowship in the afterglow that only comes at the end of the big adventure. We visit with friends old and new, I receive my five year finisher’s award, we try to express our thanks to everyone, and with darkness approaching, Pam and I turn the car toward home.

A good friend and fellow ultrarunner recently asked me, in surprising seriousness, why I ran ultras. Fumbled around with that one for a while, but really couldn’t distill the ingredients into anything remotely resembling a valid answer. I know that part of the reason is just to get out there and see what I can do. And what I can’t. But to go out there and at age 58 run a course PR four weeks after doing well at MMT with minimal training, well, that must be a huge part of whatever the answer truly is and a lot of what keeps me coming back. And who really cares but me? After all, it’s personal.

“But every year you need to flush out your system and do a bit of suffering. It does you a power of good. I think it’s because there is always a question mark about how you would perform. You have an idea of yourself and it can be quite a shock when you don’t come up to your own expectations. If you just tootle along you can think you’re a pretty slick bloke until things go wrong and you find you’re nothing like what you imagined yourself to be. But if you deliberately put yourself in difficult situations, then you get a pretty good idea of how you are going. That’s why I like feeding the rat. It’s a sort of annual check-up on myself. The rat is you, really. It’s the other you, and it’s being fed by the you you think you are. And they are often very different people. But when they come close to each other, that’s smashing, that is. Then the rat’s had a good meal and you come away feeling terrific. It’s a fairly rare thing, but you have to keep feeding the brute for your own peace of mind. And even if you did blow it, at least there wouldn’t be that great unknown. But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can’t think of anything sadder than that.”

– Al Alvarez

Dirty Dog 15k Report

Dirty Dog 15K Start by JR Petsko

(Start by JR Petsko)

After a week of relentless rain the clouds parted for the 5th Annual Dirty Dog 15K Trail Run. Kanawha State Forest is a perfect venue for trail races and Saturday was no exception. The break in the weather gave the trails just enough time to drain, but left it nice and muddy. 144 humans and canines toed the line on Saturday to tackle the challenging course

Jacob Malcomb by JR PetskoJacob Malcomb (Marietta, OH) took the lead early and held on for the rest of the 9.3+ mile course for a new course record of 1.04.15. Jason Bryant passed Michael Bee and Randy Gibbs between the uphill climb on White Oak Trail and the finish posted a 1.06.26 for 2nd overall. Bee and Gibbs paces each other the whole way finishing 3rd and 4th, respectively. The running most be in the blood of the Bee family, because Lowell Bee post a super fast 1.28.42 for win the Male 60+ category.
Alison Bryant held a commanding lead until she got off course after the 3rd aid station. Trail running adds the extra challenge of varied terrain and orienteering that every runner must overcome. Meg Schueger passed Heather Parks on Pine Ridge Trail and finished as the first place female overall with a time of 1:21:44. Parks was only two feet behind Meg at 1:21:45.

Meg Schueger DD15K has a dynasty in the making for Top Dog. Jack Gibbs lead the DD15K wire to wire for three-peat top dog honors with a time of 1:07:57. He loves to run and it shows. Earning his third dog tag Jack jingles when he walks. Randy is lucky to have such a great running companion. The dogs are what make this race special. Our runners train all week long with their canine best friends, and the DD15K gives the dogs a chance to compete with their companion, too.

The course was in great shape providing runners with challenging downhill sprints. Blowovers caused by the combination of the freeze thaw and high winds gave runners some log hopping fun.

Logan and Gary Smith by JR Petsko

(Logan and Gary Smith by JR Petsko)

The results came be found here and at iplayoutside. JR Petsko and Don Parks took outstanding photos of the event, too. Special thanks for the all the pet supplies and donations. We dropped everything off on Saturday.

The MSTR results will be posted soon. You still have four more races to post great times. See you on September 14th at the Helvetia 10K! Ivy Bowers
(Ivy and Randy Bowers by Don Parks)

10th Annual Helvetia 10K Mountain Run-MSTR #4